At Regensburg we encountered some of the most miserable weather in the entire trip. Too bad because it seemed to be a charming town. Like Bamburg it is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

I was amused by the fact that "Regen" means "rain" in German!

Roman remains

The site of the city has been occupied since the Stone Age, and the Romans constructed an outpost here in the 2nd century. The remains of the walls around their camp have been incorporated into some of the newer buildings such as this one.

Niedermuenster, Regensburg

We were treated to an organ concert at the Nieder Münster church. I've not been able to find any online references in English to describe this church or its organ. The church is Romanesque and was built in the 12th century.

The young man who presented the concert announced that his specialty was improvisation. His concert included, he said, three pieces: one with an "antique" flavor, one with a romantic flavor, and one with the flavor of Bach, i.e., Baroque. There were only a few recognizable Renaissance themes in the antique improv. I'm not hip on Romantic music, so can't comment much on that, but he really hit his stride when he got to the Baroque improv. The organ itself was definitely Baroque and this is obviously where his heart lies.

There are concerts at the church at 12:05 every Saturday. They range from Renaissance madrigals to jazz. There was one scheduled for right after we had to leave. It was featuring the music of Nick Drake. I had never heard of him before and now that I've had a chance to research him, I'm sorry we didn't get to hear the concert.

Donkey Tower Regensburg

After the concert we walked toward the cathedral.

The current Gothic structure replaced an earlier Romanesque one. As the work was being done in sections, this original tower was used to transport building materials to the upper levels. Our guide said that the original intent had been to tear it down after the new cathedral was finished, but the builders discovered that it would weaken the structure so it remains. It is call the Donkey's Tower because "donkey" was the designation for the goods lift. We use a similar designation, donkey engine, for a powered winch or pump.

I forget what the crane finial signified. Unless.... "Crane" in English can be used for the bird or a hoisting device. In German "Kran" is the hoisting device and "Kranich" is the bird. It's possible that the finial is a visual pun.

Cathedral Workshop

Behind the cathedral is a workshop (Dombauhütte) where repairs can be made to old stone work and new carvings can be created. Our guide said that the master builders run a school there for stone carvers and restorers.

Regensburg Cathedral

The front of the cathedral. The greenish stone was from earlier restoration projects. White stone that better matches the original has been identified and is gradually being used to replace it.

The cathedral is said to be the best exemplar of Gothic architecture in Bavaria. It was under construction for about 600 years and only completed in the late 19th century!

Regensburg City Hall

The Regensburg town hall was built in three sections. The oldest, dating from the 13th century, is on the left.  A new Baroque building was added to expand the space in the 16th century. It can just be seen on the right. The officials got tired of going out into the cold and rain between buildings, so a connecting section was added between them.

The old town hall now contains a museum.

There was a wedding reception going on while we were there.


After our tour we had the option of shopping, visiting the cathedral, going back to the ship, or finding a bite to eat in town. Balázs had been singing the praises of the Historic Sausage Kitchen, which is found in the pale building on the right of this picture. We made a beeline for it and found that a number of other Road Scholars had done the same, including Balázs.

The specialty of the house is bratwurst and it was very good. Balázs said that the traditional beverage to accompany it is Weissbier, but neither Jim nor I care for it. Jim got a regular lager and I got white wine, which came in a lovely quarter-litre carafe. We've been searching for a carafe of that size for some time and offered to buy it from the restaurant. We were told that it wasn't for sale, but that if it disappeared no one would notice. It's a very nice carafe. We left a very good tip.

Stone Bridge, Regensburg

The Stone Bridge crosses the Danube right beside the building that contains the Sausage Kitchen. It was built in the 12th century and was used by vehicular traffic until 2005. It is now pedestrian only. The many years of heavy traffic have taken their toll and the bridge is undergoing extensive conservation.

It was the only bridge across the Danube at Regensburg until well into the 20th century and played a major role in the city's becoming a commercial hub.

The above picture was taken from the bridge.

City Gate

The south tower shown here is the only one remaining of the original three towers associated with the bridge. I suspect it is not original, but the city gate would have been here.


After lunch Jim & I decided to walk back to the ship. On the way I got this picture of a very bold mallard. They are handsome ducks even if they are as common as dirt.


I also got a picture of this water bird. We saw them all over during our trip. It may be a juvenile little gull or a non-breeding black-headed gull.

Clothes pins

We were expecting the ship to be docked quite close to town, but they hadn't been given permission to move up. It was therefore docked a muddy half-mile or so away. There were ship's staff positioned at the expected docking location with umbrellas for those who lacked them and an offer to call a taxi.

We elected to walk, of course. On the way we passed this building under construction. Jim & I were both amused by the "clothes pins" holding the roof membrane in place

It must have been far enough outside the historic city center that it didn't have to look medieval or even baroque.

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