This is an overview of our trip with one or two images (and text) from each day. I hope it inspires readers to check out the details of each day that can be found on the index page.



Centraal Station

Neither of us had ever been to Amsterdam before and we were determined to take advantage of the hours between our arrival and the "official" start of the program in the afternoon. The cruise port is within walking distance of the historic city center, so once we checked in to our cabin we headed out.

The Centraal Amsterdam railway station is adjacent to the cruise terminal and was a good introduction to the 19th century architecture of the city. Getting there was also a good introduction to the dominance of bicycles as primary means of transportation in the city center! Bicycle lanes are NOT an afterthought in this city and woe betide the pedestrian or automobile that intrudes on their space!

The notable site we visited was the Begijnhof near the Dam Square. This remnant of the late Middle Ages (although largely reconstructed) is a peaceful sanctuary in a busy and vibrant tourist zone. After our visit we caught the trolley back to Centraal and returned to the ship to unpack and meet our fellow travelers.

Art Appreciation

The morning of our second day we embarked on a canal cruise that terminated at the renowned Rijksmuseum. We divided into small groups of ten for guided tours of the "Golden Age" exhibits of Dutch art.

The canal cruise introduced us to the importance of water management in this country that is largely (far) below sea level and the unique urban design and building techniques that developed as a result.

Our guide for the museum, Paul, was very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about his subject, and his presentation has changed the way that I will look at paintings. He not only focused on the composition, but also on the use of various forms of perspective (who knew there was more than one?!?) and the ways that the artists used paint texture and color to produce desired effects.



During the introduction on the first day our group leader, Balázs (pronounced more-or-less like ba-LAHJ) Füzesi warned us that we would be hungry to stay and explore the places we were to visit, but that this program was a mere sample of what each stop had to offer.

This was certainly true of Amsterdam, which has been added to our "next time" list, but we had a boat to catch, so we couldn't linger.

The ship departed on the Amsterdam-Rijn-Kanaal or Amsterdam to Rhine Canal. We raced the threatening rain with success for most of the afternoon  although we did eventually have some sprinkles. As compensation we were treated to a partial double-rainbow.

The Dutch countryside was more beautiful than I thought a flat-as-a-pancake landscape could be. We were interested to see that even this below-sea-level waterway was considerably higher than the adjacent land. The canal was pretty crowded with freighters and barge tows.

At the end of the canal we had to pass two locks to raise us to the level of the Rhein River, which we would follow for the next couple of days.

Rhein Runners

The next morning we were cruising the Rhine River. The scenery at this location wasn't particularly spectacular, but we enjoyed watching all the people out for their Sunday excursions along the river.

The pair of runners on the left of the picture kept up with us for quite a long time. Although our ship was going full speed ahead and passing heavily loaded freighters, we were fighting a stiff current.

A Whale of a Beer?

If you want to see the iconic and historic sights of Cologne, visit the detailed pages. This was my favorite picture. It is the sign of the Sünner Brewery. The hops and barley are visible as part of the sign. The tavern is called Walfische (Whale), so "Sign of the Whale" makes perfect sense.

Christmas Market

Yes, our next stop, Koblenz, had cathedrals and such like, but I particularly liked this Christmas market kiosk. All the places we had visited to date had Christmas markets being prepared to open on the first of December. The shoppers among us were frustrated that none of them were yet open, although they had their chances later in the trip.

Most were just conglomerations of half-constructed sheds, but this particular kiosk was very appealing with its collection of Santa climbing down (up?) a ladder on the roof, disembodied reindeer antlers (eew, poor Dancer, et al.), and intimations of glühwein, hot cocoa, and eggnog. I am mystified by the tanker wagon on the roof, unless that's how they get glühwein in bulk.

Rhein Gorge

Koblenz was our last stop on the Rhein but we spent the afternoon cruising up the river through the picturesque Rhein Gorge. When I took a similar cruise in my school days I remember that every conceivable inch was cultivated and planted with grape vines. Fifty years later many of the terraces were fallow. I asked the reason and was told that this bank of the river was found to be relatively unproductive so it had fallen into disuse.

As a young student I sat with a friend on the upper deck of a tour ship (in the summer sun) and sipped wonderful dry Mosel wine. It was cold and rainy on this day so I sat in the enclosed Palm Court, sipped a wonderful dry Mosel wine and toasted the past.

During the night we would turn up the Main (pronounced like "mine") River for the next part of our journey.


The area of Miltenberg was originally settled in the bronze age and later occupied by the Romans. It was at the border between Rome and the Germanic tribes on the far side of the river. When the Romans withdrew in the 3rd century it was occupied by various peoples until the next population centers were established by the Franks in the 6th century. Much of the village dates back to the 16th century.

Although we are in Bavaria for the rest of our visits in Germany, we were instructed that this area is known as Franconia, after the Franks. There will be more of this later.

The entire village is picturesque but I really liked these houses stacked along the street that led up to the castle overlooking the town.


After the morning in Miltenberg we added an unscheduled visit to the abbey in Amorbach. The original schedule was for free time somewhere else, but the weather was cold and drizzly so this indoor excursion was substituted.

We arrived before our time to visit the abbey, so we were treated to cakes and coffee in a nearby cafe. That was a very popular stop!

The abbey had been confiscated from the Benedictine order by Napoleon and transferred to the Protestant Princes of Leiningen. The church is now Protestant.

The Rococo decoration was over the top.


Our visit to Würzburg included a sumptuous Prince-Bishop's palace, but the best part was the wine tasting that followed. We descended into the cellar where we found these huge tuns. As we progressed to the tasting room, there were barrels that apparently had been laid down by individuals.

This is a good place to mention that much of our time in Germany had been in the state of Bavaria, one of the sixteen that compose the Federal Republic. Bavaria itself, however, comprises two different linguistic groups: the Bavarians and the Franconians. They do not see eye to eye. There will be more of this in the detailed pages. For now, however, it is enough to know that Franconia is the home of some killer white wines.

At this tasting we sampled Müller-Thurgau, Silvaner and another one that we don't remember and didn't care for (it was sweet).

Steam Train

The following day we visited (the over-the-top) Schloss Weissenstein of yet another Prince-Bishop, but the photographic high-point of the day was this steam train puffing by a different schloss along the river. We were on our way to our next stop at Bamburg.

I had scurried outside to get an image of the picturesque schloss when the pufferbelly came screaming along. It was almost a reflexive "click" of the shutter.

One of our fellow-travelers complained shortly thereafter that the thick smoke from the train spoiled the view. In my view, the train WAS the view!


That afternoon we visited Bamberg, a wonderful medieval city. It was the original home of the Messerschmitt family, but to the joy of the locals and the preservation of the town, the Messerschmitt aircraft factory was located elsewhere. Since there was no industry of note, the town largely escaped Allied bombing. Major damage was done, however, by the retreating Nazis who dynamited the bridges across the Regnitz river.

Throughout our travels to date every town and city was in the process of setting up their Christmas markets. The market in Bamberg, on the other hand, was in full swing to the delight of our shoppers.

A friend of ours who travels a lot in Europe was shocked that we would be visiting in November. He warned us that it would be dark. OK, fine, but not so many tourists. This picture was taken before 6pm.

At Bamberg we left the Main River and entered the Rhein-Main-Danube canal.

Fascination and Terror

Our Nürmburg focus was on its Nazi past. The Documentation Center, a museum dedicated to the rise and fall of the National Socialists, was located in the uncompleted Nazi Congress Hall. It had a permanent exhibit with the theme "Fascination and Terror." It was depressing, especially in light of current events in the US. Who could have thought that we would see Nazi sympathizers marching in Charlottesville, VA! As I was leaving the museum, this view of the unfinished brick wall with reflections from the glass walls of the walkway perfectly captured the disorientation that I felt.

Regensburg Bridge

By the time we reached Regensburg we had left the canal and were cruising the Danube. Now that we are heading downstream and had fewer locks, the ship was making better progress.

Unfortunately my memory of this city is largely of cold rain throughout our time there. Nevertheless it is a beautiful and colorful city and it would be worth another visit.

The high point was lunch at The Historic Sausage Kitchen. The primary location was an open-air cafe alongside the river, but there was also a nearby indoor restaurant with the same food and a much warmer and dryer atmosphere.

The place has been open for almost 900 years (!) and the food is wonderful. It is adjacent to this bridge.

Niederaltaich Abbey

Although our next stop was listed as Deggendorf, we spent precious little time there. Instead we visited a couple of "Baroque-i-cised" abbeys. This one is the Niederaltaich Abbey. It looks hazy because it was snowing heavily. We had snow showers throughout the day.

Starting with today we were "really" in Bavaria. Our local guide here was as dismissive of the Franconians as the Franconians were of the Bavarians.

This abbey was founded in the 8th century. Like most places it suffered from fires, war and floods. The current abbey church was renovated in the Baroque style in the early 18th century. Although it survived many disasters, it didn't survive Napoleon. The abbey was secularized in 1803 and fell into disrepair. It wasn't revived until 1927. Since then it has become a focal point of ecumenical outreach -- especially to the Eastern Orthodox church.


The high point of that afternoon was passing the last lock before Passau. This was a massive structure large enough to hold our ship and two freighters side by side. I have more pictures, but my favorite was this one of the colorful channel markers.

I know about red & green, but yellow? Google tells me that they are "special" markers that are used for a variety of things, but not to mark hazards.

We spent the night docked in Passau.

Ilz River, Passau

The Road Scholar program at Passau was a city tour in the morning, but I couldn't face yet another charming Baroque town. Five other Road Scholars had the same idea and we signed up for a nature walk offered as one of the ship's other excursions.

Three rivers come together at Passau: the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz. The nature walk was on a footpath that followed the Ilz for about three or four miles. We all enjoyed the fresh weather, which ran the gamut from snow to rain to sunshine, the exercise, and the opportunity to learn about the region's flora and fauna.

As we left Passau, we said goodbye to Germany and entered Austria.

Melk Abbey

The next morning found us at Melk Abbey. Although sumptuous Baroque architecture is not my cup of tea, the Abbey Museum (click on the "Abbey Museum" listing at the link)  was one of the high points of our trip. It is difficult to describe to someone who hasn't been there, but the design and presentation of the exhibits blew me away.

Like many other places that we visited, the posted information was primarily in German. I was surprised at how much I remembered.

At present most of the Abbey complex is dedicated to a secondary school. It was a pioneer in offering co-ed Catholic education. More information about the school can be found at the link.


After our visit to the abbey we cruised down the Wachau Valley. The slopes of the valley were filled with vineyards and orchards. It was a lovely afternoon.

At the end of the valley we visited the village of Dürnstein with its distinctive blue church tower overlooked by the ruins of the old fortress. The fortress had once imprisoned Richard I of England who had offended the Duke of Austria. The huge ransom demanded for his eventual release was credited as funding many of the improvements to medieval Austria that still remain.


The next morning we arrived in Vienna, where we would spend two days.

I'll be honest, neither Jim nor I cared much for Vienna. The first day was pretty much a blur as we drove around town in a bus and heard much more than we could absorb. The best part of the day was having a glühwein with our Road Scholar guide Balázs.

Spanish Riding School Stables

The second day, however, was the high point of my trip: a visit to the Spanish Riding School!

Performances are only scheduled on the weekends, but I signed up for the "morning exercises" and an afternoon tour of the facility and stables. Pictures aren't allowed during the exercises or the tour, but I was able to capture this one afterwards. As you can see the stables are right in the urban center.

Fear not, the horses only work one-half the year and get regular R&R in the country.

Dubcek Memorial

We had a whirlwind tour of Bratislava, Slovakia, the next morning. In general our local guides were nostalgic for the old Communist regime. The level of mistrust in the current government is high and the old certainties have been lost.

That said, my favorite site of the day was this memorial to Alexander Dubcek. As our guides said, he may have been a Communist, but he was a good Communist. I was studying in Germany back in 1968, and I well remember the Prague Spring. We had a Czech couple studying in the school and that made it very personal. They returned home early because they were worried about their family.

Bratislava was a focal point of the Soviet invasion because it shares a border with Hungary.

Matthias Church, Budapest

Our trip definitely saved the best for last! Of all the places we visited only Budapest and Amsterdam made it onto our "next time" list, and Budapest was our clear favorite. There was not nearly enough time even to scratch the surface of this beautiful city.

After a surfeit of Baroque churches, the Matthias church of Buda's Castle District, was a welcome change. Although the structure is clearly Gothic, it was certainly atypical on the inside.

I hope you are now tempted to join us in the details of our journey.

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